Finland surprised me. I spent ten days there – split between Helsinki in summer and Lapland in winter – and came away with a deep appreciation for a country that has mastered the art of quiet contentment. This is not a place of grand monuments or crowded attractions. It is a place of forests, lakes, and saunas; of long summer days and dark winter nights; of a society that functions so smoothly it almost seems boring until you realise how remarkable that actually is.
The Finns have a word, sisu, meaning something like stoic determination or inner strength. You see it everywhere: in the matter-of-fact way they cope with extreme weather, in the pristine public spaces, in the efficient systems that just work. And when they do relax, they do it properly – retreating to lakeside cabins, sitting in saunas, and staring at the forest in companionable silence.
Helsinki
The capital is compact, walkable, and architecturally distinctive – a mix of neoclassical grandeur, Art Nouveau flourishes, and bold modernist statements. It sits on a peninsula jutting into the Baltic, with islands and harbours on every side.
Senate Square
The neoclassical heart of Helsinki, dominated by the white Lutheran Cathedral with its green copper dome. The square was designed in the 19th century when Finland was a Russian Grand Duchy, and the cathedral’s resemblance to St Petersburg’s architecture is intentional. Climb the steps for views over the harbour.
Suomenlinna
A UNESCO World Heritage fortress spread across six islands, fifteen minutes by ferry from the Market Square. Built by the Swedes in the 18th century, later used by Russians and Finns, it is now a popular day trip with museums, cafes, walking paths, and beaches. The ferry is included in public transport tickets; museums cost EUR 5-12 (£4.30-10) each.
Allow three to four hours to explore properly. Bring a picnic in summer.
Temppeliaukio Church
The Rock Church, carved directly into granite bedrock, with a copper dome rising above street level. Natural light floods through skylights around the dome’s edge. The acoustics are exceptional; concerts are held regularly. Entry EUR 5 (£4.30).
Design District
Helsinki takes design seriously. The Design District spans 25 streets with over 200 shops, galleries, and studios selling Finnish furniture, textiles, and homewares. The Design Museum (EUR 14 / £12) traces Finnish design from Alvar Aalto to modern innovators.
Market Square and Old Market Hall
The harbour-side Market Square has outdoor stalls selling berries, fish, and souvenirs. The adjacent Old Market Hall, a 19th-century brick building, has vendors selling smoked salmon, reindeer meat, and Finnish specialities. Good for lunch – expect to pay EUR 10-18 (£8.60-15.50) for a meal.
Lapland
Northern Finland above the Arctic Circle is a different country – endless forests, frozen lakes, reindeer, and the Northern Lights. In winter, this is one of the best places on earth to see the aurora; in summer, the midnight sun never sets.
Rovaniemi
The “official hometown of Santa Claus” sits exactly on the Arctic Circle. The Santa Claus Village is unashamedly touristy but children love it – meet Santa, cross the Arctic Circle line, and send postcards from the Santa Claus Post Office.
Beyond the Christmas theme, Rovaniemi is a good base for Lapland activities. The Arktikum museum (EUR 18 / £15.50) explains Arctic life and the indigenous Sami culture; the Korundi House of Culture has excellent art exhibitions.
Northern Lights
The aurora borealis is visible in Lapland roughly 200 nights per year, with peak season from September to March. Clear skies and darkness are required; organised tours take you away from town lights to improve viewing chances.
Tours cost EUR 80-150 (£69-129) and typically last four to five hours, with guides who know the best viewing spots and can explain the science. Alternatively, rent a car and drive into the wilderness yourself – just be prepared for winter driving conditions.
No guarantees exist. The aurora is weather-dependent; some visitors see spectacular displays while others see nothing despite multiple nights of trying.
Winter Activities
Lapland in winter offers experiences unavailable elsewhere in Europe:
Husky sledding – Teams of huskies pull you through snow-covered forests. Multi-day expeditions are available for the committed; shorter tours of two to four hours cost EUR 150-250 (£129-215).
Reindeer sledding – Slower and more traditional than huskies, with Sami herders guiding the experience. Tours include traditional lunch in a lavvu (tent) and stories of Sami culture. EUR 120-180 (£103-155).
Snowmobile safaris – Cover more ground than dog sleds; multi-hour tours venture deep into the wilderness. EUR 150-300 (£129-258) depending on duration.
Ice fishing – Drill a hole in the frozen lake, drop a line, and wait. Surprisingly meditative. Often combined with a visit to a lakeside sauna.
Glass Igloos and Arctic Hotels
Lapland has developed unique accommodation for aurora viewing. Glass igloos and aurora cabins have heated glass ceilings or walls, letting you watch the Northern Lights from bed. These are expensive (EUR 400-800 / £344-688 per night) and book months in advance, but the experience is memorable.
Traditional options include log cabins and wilderness lodges at more reasonable rates (EUR 100-200 / £86-172 per night).
Finnish Sauna
The sauna is central to Finnish life – there are over three million saunas in a country of 5.5 million people. This is not a luxury spa experience; it is an everyday ritual, a place for cleansing body and mind.
Traditional Finnish saunas are heated by wood-burning stoves with water thrown on hot stones to create steam (löyly). The temperature ranges from 70-100°C. You sweat, cool off (traditionally by jumping in a lake or rolling in snow), and repeat.
Public saunas in Helsinki include:
Löyly – A modern seaside sauna complex with dramatic architecture, restaurant, and terrace. Entry EUR 21 (£18) including sauna, shower, and towel. Swimwear required in mixed sections.
Kotiharjun Sauna – A traditional wood-heated public sauna operating since 1928. Entry EUR 17 (£14.60). Authentic and local.
Allas Sea Pool – A floating complex in Helsinki harbour with saunas, heated pools, and cold seawater pools. Entry EUR 16 (£13.80).
Finnish Lakeland
Central Finland contains thousands of lakes – 188,000 by one count – connected by waterways and surrounded by forest. This is where Finns go in summer, retreating to lakeside cottages (mökki) for swimming, fishing, and sauna.
Savonlinna
A lakeside town built on islands, dominated by the medieval Olavinlinna Castle. The castle hosts the annual Savonlinna Opera Festival in July – one of Europe’s most atmospheric music events, with operas performed inside the castle courtyard. Festival tickets sell out months ahead; the town fills with visitors.
Outside festival season, the castle is worth visiting for its own sake. Entry EUR 12 (£10).
Kuopio
A lake town known for its market square, wooden houses, and the Puijo Tower observation deck with panoramic views over the lakeland. The Kuopio Wine Festival in June is popular; kalakukko (fish baked inside bread) is the local speciality.
Turku and the Archipelago
Finland’s oldest city and former capital sits at the mouth of the Aura River, with a medieval castle, cathedral, and the world’s largest archipelago offshore.
Turku
The riverfront is the heart of the city, lined with restaurants, bars, and converted boats serving as floating cafes. Turku Castle (EUR 12 / £10) dates to the 13th century and houses a historical museum. The cathedral, also medieval, is the national shrine of Finland.
Archipelago Trail
A 250-kilometre route through over 20,000 islands by road, bridge, and ferry. You can cycle it in a week, drive it in a few days, or explore sections at leisure. Ferries are free; accommodation ranges from camping to island guesthouses.
The Archipelago National Park protects part of this unique landscape, with excellent kayaking, birdwatching, and swimming.
Finnish Food
Traditional Dishes
Kalakukko – Fish (usually vendace or perch) baked inside a rye bread crust. A Savonian speciality.
Karjalanpiirakka – Karelian pasties: oval pastries with rice filling, traditionally eaten with egg butter.
Poronkäristys – Sauteed reindeer served with mashed potatoes and lingonberry jam. The classic Lapland dish.
Grillimakkara – Grilled sausage, typically eaten at barbecues and summer events.
Lohikeitto – Creamy salmon soup, a comfort food staple.
Mustikkapiirakka – Blueberry pie, at its best in August when wild blueberries are in season.
Drink
Coffee consumption in Finland is among the highest in the world. Finns drink coffee constantly, often with pulla (cardamom bread).
For alcohol, try Lonkero (a grapefruit-gin long drink invented for the 1952 Olympics), Finnish craft beers, or cloudberry liqueur.
Practical Information
Getting There
Finnair operates direct flights from London to Helsinki (3 hours). Budget carriers fly to Helsinki from various European cities. Ferries connect Helsinki with Tallinn (2 hours) and Stockholm (16 hours overnight).
For Lapland, fly to Rovaniemi or Kittilä from Helsinki (1.5 hours).
Getting Around
Trains – VR operates efficient services throughout southern and central Finland. Helsinki to Turku takes 2 hours; Helsinki to Rovaniemi takes about 12 hours (overnight trains available with sleeper cabins). Book early for cheaper “Saver” fares.
Buses – Matkahuolto and Onnibus connect towns not on the railway. Essential for reaching smaller lakeland destinations.
Car – Useful for Lakeland and Lapland exploration. Winter driving requires proper tyres and care on icy roads.
When to Visit
June to August – Warmest weather, midnight sun in Lapland, best for lakes and hiking. Peak prices.
September to March – Northern Lights season. Cold in Lapland (down to -30°C), milder in Helsinki.
December to February – Winter activities at their best. Magical but expensive over Christmas.
April and May – Spring thaw. Cheaper but muddy.
Costs
Finland is expensive, though slightly cheaper than Norway.
- Hostel dorm: EUR 30-45 (£26-39) per night
- Budget hotel: EUR 80-120 (£69-103) per night
- Mid-range hotel: EUR 120-200 (£103-172) per night
- Restaurant meal: EUR 15-30 (£13-26)
- Coffee and pastry: EUR 6-10 (£5.15-8.60)
- Beer at bar: EUR 7-10 (£6-8.60)
- Museum entry: EUR 10-18 (£8.60-15.50)
Visas
Finland is in the Schengen Area. UK visitors can stay up to 90 days in any 180-day period. Passport must be valid for at least three months beyond planned departure.
Language
Finnish and Swedish are official languages. Finnish is notoriously difficult for foreigners, unrelated to most European languages. English is widely spoken, especially in cities and tourism – you will have no problems communicating.
Power
Finland uses Type C and F plugs (two round pins). Voltage is 230V. UK visitors need a travel adapter.
