I visited the Amalfi Coast expecting a relaxing beach holiday and discovered something completely different. The roads wind along cliffs so steep that the bus drivers deserve medals. Positano looks exactly like the postcards but costs accordingly – my €8 coffee came with one of the best views of my life. The Path of the Gods hike left my legs aching for days but also produced photographs I still use as phone wallpaper. This is not a destination for lounging on flat sandy beaches; it is dramatic, vertical, and worth every hairpin turn to reach.
The Amalfi Coast is a 50-kilometer stretch of coastline in southern Italy, a UNESCO World Heritage site with dramatic cliffs, colorful villages, and Mediterranean views. The coast has thirteen towns, each with its own character.
Main Towns
Positano: The most photographed town – pastel houses cascading down the cliffside. Expensive, crowded, but undeniably picturesque. Good beaches at Marina Grande.
Amalfi: Historic maritime republic with a striking cathedral and medieval streets. More commercial than other towns but central for transport connections.
Ravello: Clifftop town above the coast, known for Villa Cimbrone gardens and classical music festivals. Quieter and more cultural than the beach towns.
Vietri Sul Mare: Famous for hand-painted ceramics. Less touristy than Positano or Amalfi.
Cetara: Fishing village known for fresh tuna and anchovies. More local feel.
Getting There
By air: Fly to Naples Capodichino (NAP). From Naples:
- Train to Sorrento (1 hour), then bus or ferry to coast
- Train to Salerno (40 minutes), then bus along coast
- Taxi/transfer direct to your hotel
By ferry: Ferries connect Naples, Sorrento, and Capri to Amalfi Coast towns during season.
Getting Around
SITA buses: Connect all towns along the coast. Cheap but crowded. Roads are narrow and winding.
Ferries: Scenic option between coastal towns. Avoids traffic but weather-dependent.
Car: Not recommended unless experienced with mountain roads. Parking is expensive and limited. Peak season has license plate restrictions (even/odd days).
Scooter: Popular but roads are challenging.
Taxi: Fixed prices between towns. Expensive but convenient.
| Route | Approximate Taxi Price |
|---|---|
| Amalfi to Positano | €70 |
| Amalfi to Ravello | €40 |
| Positano to Naples | €140 |
| Sorrento to Positano | €80 |
Best Time to Visit
April-May, September-October: Best balance of weather and crowds. Warm enough for beaches, fewer tourists than summer.
June-August: Hottest and most crowded. Higher prices. Some restrictions on driving.
November-March: Many hotels and restaurants close. Weather unpredictable. Ferries may be cancelled.
Things to Do
Hiking:
- Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei): Famous trail with coastal views
- Valle dei Mulini: Easier walk through valley with ancient mills
Beaches:
- Positano Marina Grande (main beach, easy access)
- Fiordo di Furore (dramatic fjord setting)
- Bagni Regina Giovanna near Sorrento (Roman ruins, swimming)
Historic sites:
- Amalfi Cathedral
- Villa Cimbrone, Ravello
- Day trip to Pompeii
Boat tours: Tours to Capri, along the coast, or grotto visits.
Food
Local specialties:
- Limoncello: Made from Amalfi lemons
- Anchovies of Cetara: Local delicacy
- Scialatielli all’Amalfitana: Fresh pasta with seafood
- Sfogliatella: Crispy pastry
- Fresh seafood: Throughout the coast
Accommodation
- Hotels: Range from basic to luxury. Book well ahead for summer.
- Villas: Private rentals, often with pools and views
- B&Bs: More affordable, often family-run
Expect to pay more than elsewhere in Italy. Positano is most expensive, Vietri and Cetara more affordable.
Tips
- Book accommodation and transport in advance for peak season
- Pack comfortable shoes – lots of steps everywhere
- Water shoes useful for pebbly beaches
- Learn basic Italian phrases
- Consider staying in quieter towns and day-tripping to Positano
