I visited the Amalfi Coast expecting a relaxing beach holiday and discovered something completely different. The roads wind along cliffs so steep that the bus drivers deserve medals. Positano looks exactly like the postcards but costs accordingly – my €8 coffee came with one of the best views of my life. The Path of the Gods hike left my legs aching for days but also produced photographs I still use as phone wallpaper. This is not a destination for lounging on flat sandy beaches; it is dramatic, vertical, and worth every hairpin turn to reach.
The Amalfi Coast is a 50-kilometer stretch of coastline in southern Italy, a UNESCO World Heritage site with dramatic cliffs, colorful villages, and Mediterranean views. The coast has thirteen towns, each with its own character.
Main Towns
Positano: The most photographed town – pastel houses cascading down the cliffside. Expensive, crowded, but undeniably picturesque. Good beaches at Marina Grande.
Amalfi: Historic maritime republic with a striking cathedral and medieval streets. More commercial than other towns but central for transport connections.
Ravello: Clifftop town above the coast, known for Villa Cimbrone gardens and classical music festivals. Quieter and more cultural than the beach towns.
Vietri Sul Mare: Famous for hand-painted ceramics. Less touristy than Positano or Amalfi.
Cetara: Fishing village known for fresh tuna and anchovies. More local feel.
Getting There
By air: Fly to Naples Capodichino (NAP). From Naples:
- Train to Sorrento (1 hour), then bus or ferry to coast
- Train to Salerno (40 minutes), then bus along coast
- Taxi/transfer direct to your hotel
By ferry: Ferries connect Naples, Sorrento, and Capri to Amalfi Coast towns during season.
Getting Around
SITA buses: Connect all towns along the coast. Cheap but crowded. Roads are narrow and winding.
Ferries: Scenic option between coastal towns. Avoids traffic but weather-dependent.
Car: Not recommended unless experienced with mountain roads. Parking is expensive and limited. Peak season has license plate restrictions (even/odd days).
Scooter: Popular but roads are challenging.
Taxi: Fixed prices between towns. Expensive but convenient.
| Route | Approximate Taxi Price |
|---|---|
| Amalfi to Positano | €70 |
| Amalfi to Ravello | €40 |
| Positano to Naples | €140 |
| Sorrento to Positano | €80 |
Best Time to Visit
April-May, September-October: Best balance of weather and crowds. Warm enough for beaches, fewer tourists than summer.
June-August: Hottest and most crowded. Higher prices. Some restrictions on driving.
November-March: Many hotels and restaurants close. Weather unpredictable. Ferries may be cancelled.
Things to Do
Hiking:
- Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei): Famous trail with coastal views
- Valle dei Mulini: Easier walk through valley with ancient mills
Beaches:
- Positano Marina Grande (main beach, easy access)
- Fiordo di Furore (dramatic fjord setting)
- Bagni Regina Giovanna near Sorrento (Roman ruins, swimming)
Historic sites:
- Amalfi Cathedral
- Villa Cimbrone, Ravello
- Day trip to Pompeii
Boat tours: Tours to Capri, along the coast, or grotto visits.
Food
Local specialties:
- Limoncello: Made from Amalfi lemons
- Anchovies of Cetara: Local delicacy
- Scialatielli all’Amalfitana: Fresh pasta with seafood
- Sfogliatella: Crispy pastry
- Fresh seafood: Throughout the coast
Accommodation
- Hotels: Range from basic to luxury. Book well ahead for summer.
- Villas: Private rentals, often with pools and views
- B&Bs: More affordable, often family-run
Expect to pay more than elsewhere in Italy. Positano is most expensive, Vietri and Cetara more affordable.
Tips
- Book accommodation and transport in advance for peak season
- Pack comfortable shoes – lots of steps everywhere
- Water shoes useful for pebbly beaches
- Learn basic Italian phrases
- Consider staying in quieter towns and day-tripping to Positano
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get to the Amalfi Coast?
Fly to Naples Capodichino Airport (NAP), then take a train to Sorrento (1 hour) or Salerno (40 minutes) and catch a bus along the coast. Alternatively, you can take a ferry during the season or arrange a direct taxi/transfer to your hotel.
What is the best time to visit the Amalfi Coast?
April-May and September-October offer the best balance of warm weather and fewer crowds. June-August is hottest and most crowded with higher prices and driving restrictions. November-March sees many hotels and restaurants closed with unpredictable weather.
Should I rent a car on the Amalfi Coast?
Renting a car is not recommended unless you’re experienced with narrow, winding mountain roads. Parking is expensive and limited, and peak season has license plate restrictions. SITA buses, ferries, and taxis are better options for getting around.
Which towns should I visit on the Amalfi Coast?
The main towns are Positano (most photographed, expensive but picturesque), Amalfi (historic with a striking cathedral), and Ravello (quieter clifftop town with gardens and music festivals). Vietri Sul Mare and Cetara offer a more local feel with fewer tourists.
What is the Path of the Gods?
The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) is a famous hiking trail offering spectacular coastal views. It’s one of the most popular activities on the Amalfi Coast for visitors who want to experience the dramatic landscape on foot.
How expensive is the Amalfi Coast?
The Amalfi Coast is more expensive than elsewhere in Italy. Positano is the most expensive town, while Vietri and Cetara are more affordable. Expect higher prices for accommodation, food, and transport compared to other Italian destinations.
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