I got my PADI certification in Thailand because courses were cheap and the water was warm. When I finally made it to the Red Sea two years later, I understood why experienced divers kept telling me it was different. The visibility was unlike anything I’d seen – 30 metres on an average day, sometimes 40. The coral walls dropped away into deep blue nothing. And the marine life didn’t scatter when you approached. At Ras Mohammed, I drifted along a reef wall watching a school of barracuda so thick it blocked the sun.
The Red Sea has been a diving destination since Jacques Cousteau filmed there in the 1950s. It’s earned its reputation through consistent conditions, healthy reefs, and some of the most accessible world-class diving you’ll find anywhere. From the UK, you can be underwater in Sharm el-Sheikh within five hours of leaving home. Try doing that to the Great Barrier Reef or Seychelles.
Why the Red Sea is Different
The Red Sea is essentially a flooded rift valley – the same geological process that created East Africa’s Great Rift. This gives it unusual characteristics: high salinity, minimal tidal movement, and water that stays warm year-round (22-28°C depending on season and depth).
For divers, this means exceptional visibility. The limited freshwater input and low plankton levels keep the water clear. The high salinity means you need less weight on your belt. And the warm temperatures mean you can dive in a 3mm wetsuit even in winter.
The coral health is generally excellent. Being relatively isolated from the Indian Ocean, the Red Sea developed unique species – about 10% of its marine life is endemic. The fringing reefs along the Egyptian coast remain vibrant, with both hard and soft corals in better condition than most heavily-dived destinations.
The Main Diving Regions
Sharm el-Sheikh (South Sinai)
The most developed and accessible diving area. Sharm has everything from beginner-friendly shore dives to world-class sites like Ras Mohammed National Park and the Thistlegorm wreck.
Best sites:
- Ras Mohammed – The jewel of Egyptian diving. Shark Reef and Yolanda Reef offer wall diving with big pelagics, soft coral gardens, and a scattered cargo of toilets from a shipwreck
- The Thistlegorm – A WWII British cargo ship sunk by German bombers, now the most famous wreck dive in the world. Motorcycles, trucks, and locomotives sit in the holds
- Jackson Reef – Strong currents bring schools of tuna, barracuda, and the occasional hammerhead
Practical info:
- Direct flights from UK (4-5 hours)
- Huge range of dive operators and accommodation
- Can be busy – especially the Thistlegorm, which sees multiple boats daily
Dahab
An hour north of Sharm, Dahab has a completely different vibe. It’s a backpacker town that grew up around the diving, with a laid-back atmosphere and shore diving you can do independently.
Best sites:
- The Blue Hole – Notorious for freediving deaths, but actually an excellent scuba site. A 100m-deep sinkhole with an archway at 52m (only for tech divers) and beautiful coral along the rim
- The Canyon – A narrow crack in the reef dropping to 30m, with great lighting effects
- Eel Garden – Shallow site named for the garden eels poking from the sand
Practical info:
- Cheaper than Sharm – budget accommodation and dive centres
- Shore diving means lower costs (no boat fees)
- More relaxed pace, Bedouin cafes, good for longer stays
Hurghada
On the mainland coast, Hurghada is the oldest Red Sea resort. The town itself is sprawling and less attractive than Sharm, but it’s a base for excellent diving including some sites you can’t reach from the Sinai.
Best sites:
- Giftun Islands – Marine park with healthy reefs and good fish life
- Abu Nuhas – Four shipwrecks on one reef, including the Carnatic and Giannis D
- Careless Reef – Deeper site with sea fans and occasional dolphins
Practical info:
- Good value – often cheaper than Sharm
- Gateway to southern liveaboard routes
Marsa Alam (Southern Red Sea)
The less-developed southern coast offers pristine reefs and better chances of big marine life. Dolphins, dugongs, and oceanic whitetip sharks are all realistic sightings here.
Best sites:
- Elphinstone Reef – Deep walls with oceanic whitetips (best from October to December)
- Dolphin House (Sha’ab Samadai) – Protected bay where spinner dolphins rest. Snorkelling only, but consistently good sightings
- Abu Dabbab – Shallow bay famous for dugongs and sea turtles
Practical info:
- International airport (though fewer direct flights than Sharm/Hurghada)
- Quieter and more remote – better for serious diving than nightlife
- Base for southern liveaboards
Liveaboards
For the best Red Sea diving, get on a boat. Liveaboards reach sites that day trips can’t – the offshore reefs, the Brothers Islands, Daedalus, St John’s, and the deep south.
Northern routes (from Sharm/Hurghada):
- Thistlegorm-focused trips
- Ras Mohammed and Strait of Tiran
- Brother Islands (Big Brother, Little Brother)
- Daedalus Reef
Southern routes (from Marsa Alam/Port Ghalib):
- Elphinstone
- St John’s reef system
- Rocky and Zabargad islands
- Fury Shoals
Costs: Expect €800-1,500 for a week depending on boat quality and itinerary. Budget boats run €600-800 but may have older equipment and less experienced guides.
Best operators: Emperor Divers, Blue O Two, and Red Sea Aggressor have good reputations. For budget liveaboards, check recent reviews carefully – quality varies significantly.
When to Go
The Red Sea is diveable year-round, but conditions vary:
Summer (June-August):
- Water temperature 26-28°C
- Air temperature 35-40°C (extremely hot topside)
- Calm seas
- Best visibility
- Fewer tourists, lower prices
Winter (December-February):
- Water temperature 22-24°C
- Air temperature 20-25°C (pleasant topside)
- Occasional storms and choppy seas
- Still good visibility
- Peak season for European visitors
Shoulder seasons (March-May, September-November):
- Best balance of conditions
- October-November is best for pelagics (sharks, mantas)
- September can still be hot
For shark encounters: October-December at sites like Elphinstone and the Brothers. Oceanic whitetips and the occasional hammerhead.
Costs
Red Sea diving is excellent value compared to other world-class destinations:
| Service | Cost |
|---|---|
| Day trip (2 dives, boat) | £35-50 |
| Shore dive (Dahab) | £20-30 |
| PADI Open Water course | £250-350 |
| Advanced Open Water | £180-250 |
| Week liveaboard | £600-1,200 |
| Thistlegorm day trip (from Sharm) | £60-80 |
Equipment rental is typically included in dive prices. Nitrox is usually available for £5-10 per tank.
Where to Stay
For serious divers
Stay near the dive centres. In Sharm, that’s Naama Bay or Sharks Bay. In Dahab, anywhere along the waterfront. In Marsa Alam, the diving resorts (like Oasis or Brayka Bay) have house reefs you can dive anytime.
For mixed trips
If you’re travelling with non-divers, Sharm and Hurghada have more non-diving activities – desert trips, snorkelling, shopping. Dahab’s beach cafes and mountain excursions suit travellers who want a break from diving.
Budget vs luxury
The spread is huge. Dahab has £15/night hostels. Sharm has five-star resorts at £150+. For diving-focused trips, mid-range works fine – you’re underwater most of the day anyway.
Practical Tips
Don’t skip the briefings. Egyptian dive guides know these sites. Their briefings include current information and recent marine life sightings.
Bring your own computer and SMB. Most operators provide them, but having your own means you’re familiar with the equipment.
Watch the currents. Sites like Jackson Reef and Elphinstone have serious currents. Be honest about your experience level.
Book liveaboards in advance. Popular routes fill up, especially during European school holidays.
Take the desert trips. A quad bike or camel trip into the Sinai desert is worth a half-day break from diving. The landscape is otherworldly.
Is the Red Sea Overhyped?
No. It earned its reputation for good reason: consistent conditions, healthy reefs, accessible from Europe, and diving at every level from beginner shore dives to technical wreck exploration. Is it the most remote or pristine diving in the world? No – for that, try Komodo, Raja Ampat, or Galápagos. But for the combination of quality, value, and accessibility, the Red Sea is hard to beat.
I’ve been back three times since that first trip. The Thistlegorm still gives me chills. The walls at Ras Mohammed are still spectacular. And I haven’t managed to see a hammerhead yet – so I’ll be back again.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a visa to visit Egypt for diving?
Most nationalities can obtain a visa on arrival at Egyptian airports for $25 USD. UK, US, and EU citizens are eligible for 30-day tourist visas. Alternatively, you can apply for an e-visa before travel. Check current requirements as policies can change.
What is the best time to visit the Red Sea for diving?
The Red Sea is diveable year-round, but the best conditions are during shoulder seasons (March-May and September-November). October to December is ideal for shark encounters at sites like Elphinstone. Summer offers best visibility but extreme heat topside, while winter can bring occasional storms.
What currency is used in Egypt and should I bring cash?
The Egyptian Pound (EGP) is the local currency. US dollars and euros are widely accepted in tourist areas, but you’ll get better rates exchanging to local currency. ATMs are available in all resort towns. Bring cash for tips, small purchases, and dive operators who may prefer cash payments.
How much does a week of diving in the Red Sea cost?
Budget around £400-600 for accommodation and diving (shore dives in Dahab), £800-1,200 for mid-range hotels with boat dives, or £1,500+ for liveaboards and luxury resorts. Day trips cost £35-50 for two dives. Liveaboards offer the best value for serious divers wanting to access remote sites.
Is it safe to travel to the Red Sea diving resorts?
The Red Sea resort areas (Sharm el-Sheikh, Dahab, Hurghada, Marsa Alam) are generally safe for tourists. These areas have significant security presence and are separate from mainland Egypt’s urban centres. Follow local advice, avoid political demonstrations, and check current Foreign Office guidance before travel.
What diving certification do I need for Red Sea dive sites?
Open Water certification is sufficient for most Red Sea sites. However, some locations like the Thistlegorm wreck (30m) and Elphinstone (deep walls) require Advanced Open Water or equivalent. Technical diving certification is needed for the Blue Hole arch at 52m. Many operators offer courses on-site if you want to upgrade your certification.
