Colombia is the comeback story of South American travel. A generation ago, the country was synonymous with drug cartels and violence, essentially off-limits to tourists. Today it is one of the continent’s most exciting destinations – a country that has worked hard to reinvent itself and now welcomes visitors with genuine warmth and pride.
I spent three weeks travelling from Bogota through the Coffee Triangle to Cartagena, and the transformation was everywhere. Streets that were once dangerous are now lined with restaurants and galleries. Former narco strongholds have become innovation hubs. The Colombians I met were eager to show off their country, conscious that decades of bad press have left an outdated impression.
What surprised me most was the diversity. The places to visit in Colombia span Caribbean beaches, Andean mountains, Amazon jungle, and Pacific coast within its borders. Each region has its own culture, cuisine, and accent. The variety rivals Brazil but in a more compact package.
Cartagena
The jewel of Colombia’s Caribbean coast, Cartagena is a walled colonial city of pastel-coloured buildings, flower-draped balconies, and narrow cobbled streets. The old town is beautiful in an almost theatrical way – every corner seems designed for photographs.
The Walled City
The centro historico is contained within 16th-century walls built to defend against pirates. Inside, the streets wind between colonial mansions, baroque churches, and shaded plazas. The buildings are painted in vivid yellows, blues, and oranges, with wooden balconies overflowing with bougainvillea.
Plaza de Bolivar – The main square, shaded by trees and surrounded by colonial architecture. Statue of Simon Bolivar at the centre; the Palace of the Inquisition (now a museum) on one side.
San Pedro Claver Church – A 17th-century church dedicated to the “Slave of the Slaves,” the priest who ministered to enslaved Africans arriving in Cartagena. The church and adjacent monastery are beautiful; the history is sobering.
Walking the Walls – The ramparts that encircle the old town can be walked, with views over the city and sea. Sunset is the best time.
Getsemani
The neighbourhood just outside the walls, historically working-class and now increasingly gentrified. Getsemani has a grittier, more local feel than the polished centro historico – street art, backpacker hostels, local restaurants, and evening gatherings in Plaza Trinidad. Many travellers prefer staying here to the more expensive walled city.
Islas del Rosario
The archipelago of islands off Cartagena’s coast offers beaches and snorkelling. Day trips are easy to arrange (COP 80,000-150,000 / £16-30); overnight stays at island hotels provide more time and fewer crowds.
Cartagena Practicalities
The heat and humidity are intense – drink water constantly and take midday breaks. The old town is walkable but taxis are cheap for longer distances. Street vendors are persistent; a firm “no gracias” usually works.
Budget restaurants in Getsemani serve set lunches for COP 15,000-20,000 (£3-4); restaurants in the walled city charge COP 50,000-100,000 (£10-20) for dinner.
Bogota
Colombia’s capital sits at 2,600 metres in the Andes, a sprawling city of nine million people that rarely makes tourist highlight reels but rewards those who spend time here. The altitude takes adjustment – expect to feel tired and short of breath for the first day or two.
La Candelaria
The historic centre, with colonial buildings, street art, and most of the main attractions. The neighbourhood climbs the hillside below Monserrate, with steep streets and a mix of renovated and crumbling facades.
Gold Museum (Museo del Oro) – One of the world’s great museums, housing over 55,000 pieces of pre-Columbian gold. The collection is stunning – ceremonial objects, jewellery, and tools that demonstrate extraordinary craftsmanship. The final room, where gold objects are spotlit in darkness, is unforgettable. Entry COP 4,000 (£0.80) – essentially free.
Botero Museum – Fernando Botero, Colombia’s most famous artist, donated his personal collection to the nation. The museum displays his distinctive rotund figures alongside works by Picasso, Dali, and other modern masters he collected. Free entry.
Plaza Bolivar – The main square, surrounded by government buildings. The square itself is rather stark, but it is the heart of the city.
Monserrate – The mountain overlooking the city, topped by a white church. A cable car or funicular takes you up (COP 25,000 / £5 return); the views across the city and to the surrounding mountains are spectacular. Go late afternoon for sunset.
Other Neighbourhoods
Chapinero – The modern district north of La Candelaria, with good restaurants, bars, and nightlife. More polished and expensive than the centre.
Usaquen – An upscale neighbourhood with a Sunday flea market, good restaurants, and a village-like atmosphere. Worth the trip for the market.
Zipaquira Salt Cathedral
An underground cathedral carved from an active salt mine, about an hour north of Bogota. The scale is impressive – the main nave is 75 metres underground, with enormous carved crosses and religious figures lit in changing colours. It sounds kitschy; in person, it is genuinely moving.
Tours depart frequently from Bogota (COP 60,000-80,000 / £12-16 including transport).
Medellin
The transformation of Medellin is the most dramatic story in Colombian tourism. In the 1990s, it was the most dangerous city on earth – the headquarters of Pablo Escobar’s cocaine empire. Today it is a confident, modern city that has become a model for urban renewal, with efficient public transport, innovative social programmes, and a thriving restaurant and bar scene.
Getting Around
The metro system – Colombia’s only one – is a source of local pride. It is clean, safe, and efficient, reaching into the hillside barrios via cable cars that double as tourist attractions.
Metrocable – Cable car lines extend the metro into the hillside neighbourhoods, originally built to provide transport for communities with no road access. The views from the cars are spectacular – the city spreads below as you climb into the mountains.
Neighbourhoods
El Poblado – The upscale district where most tourists stay, with high-end restaurants, rooftop bars, and boutique hotels. Safe and comfortable but somewhat insulated from the rest of the city.
Laureles – More local and affordable than El Poblado, with good restaurants and a neighbourhood feel. Popular with longer-term visitors and digital nomads.
Comuna 13 – The hillside neighbourhood that was once among the most violent in the city, now transformed by escalators (outdoor escalators built into the hillside), street art, and community projects. Guided tours (essential – do not visit alone) explain the history and current situation. COP 40,000-60,000 (£8-12).
Day Trips
Guatape – A lake town about two hours east, known for the Piedra del Penol – a massive rock with 700 steps carved into its side. The views from the top, across the reservoir and surrounding hills, are stunning. The town itself has colourful painted houses. Easily visited as a day trip (COP 80,000-100,000 / £16-20 for tours).
The Coffee Triangle
The region around Armenia, Pereira, and Manizales produces some of the world’s best coffee. The landscape is green and hilly, with coffee farms (fincas) offering tours and accommodation. This is where you understand why Colombian coffee is famous.
Salento
The most popular base for exploring the region – a small town of colourful houses, craft shops, and restaurants serving trout from the local rivers. The main plaza is pleasant for sitting with coffee and watching life pass by.
Coffee Farm Tours – Multiple farms offer tours explaining the growing, harvesting, and processing of coffee. Finca El Ocaso and Don Elias are well-regarded. Tours take 2-3 hours and include tastings. COP 25,000-40,000 (£5-8).
Valle de Cocora – A valley of towering wax palms – Colombia’s national tree, growing up to 60 metres tall. The sight of these impossibly tall, thin palms against the green hills and misty sky is surreal. Hikes through the valley take 4-6 hours; easier walks are also possible.
Jeeps (Willys) run from Salento’s main plaza to the valley entrance.
Practical Information
Safety
Colombia has improved dramatically, but caution is still warranted. Tourist areas in major cities are generally safe with normal precautions. Avoid flashy jewellery and phones; use official taxis or ride apps; stay aware of your surroundings.
Areas outside main tourist routes require more research – some regions still have security concerns. Check current travel advisories before visiting.
Drug tourism exists and is widely advertised in backpacker areas – cocaine tours, ayahuasca ceremonies, etc. Beyond the legal risks, this industry supports trafficking networks responsible for ongoing violence.
Getting Around
Domestic flights – Avianca, LATAM, and budget carriers (Viva Air, Wingo) connect major cities cheaply. Bogota to Cartagena takes 1.5 hours.
Buses – Comfortable and extensive. Long-distance buses have air conditioning, reclining seats, and bathrooms. Bogota to Medellin takes 9-10 hours; Medellin to Cartagena takes about 13 hours.
Taxis and ride apps – Uber and similar apps work but exist in a legal grey area. Official yellow taxis are safe; make sure the meter is running.
When to Visit
December to March, July to August – Dry seasons in most of the country. Peak tourist times.
April to June, September to November – Wet seasons, with afternoon rain common. Lower prices and fewer crowds. Rain is usually predictable – clear mornings, storms in the afternoon.
The Coffee Triangle is green and pleasant year-round.
Costs
Colombia is good value for money.
- Hostel dorm: COP 40,000-70,000 (£8-14) per night
- Budget hotel: COP 100,000-180,000 (£20-36) per night
- Mid-range hotel: COP 250,000-450,000 (£50-90) per night
- Restaurant meal: COP 30,000-60,000 (£6-12)
- Set lunch (menu del dia): COP 15,000-25,000 (£3-5)
- Coffee: COP 5,000-10,000 (£1-2)
- Beer: COP 7,000-12,000 (£1.40-2.40)
- Domestic flight: COP 150,000-400,000 (£30-80)
Visas
UK, US, Canadian, EU, and Australian citizens receive 90 days visa-free on arrival. Extensions are possible at immigration offices.
Language
Spanish. English is limited outside tourist areas – basic Spanish helps significantly.
Power
Colombia uses Type A and B plugs (two flat pins, same as US). Voltage is 110V. UK visitors need a travel adapter.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a visa to visit Colombia?
UK, US, Canadian, EU, and Australian citizens receive 90 days visa-free on arrival. No advance visa required for tourism. Extensions are possible at immigration offices in major cities.
What is the best time to visit Colombia?
December to March and July to August are dry seasons in most of the country and the peak tourist times. April to June and September to November are wet seasons with afternoon rain but lower prices and fewer crowds. The Coffee Triangle is pleasant year-round. Rain is usually predictable with clear mornings and storms in the afternoon.
What currency is used in Colombia?
The Colombian Peso (COP), with roughly COP 5,000 to £1. ATMs are widespread in cities, and credit cards are accepted in tourist areas and cities. Carry cash for smaller towns and rural areas. US dollars are not commonly accepted.
What type of power plugs does Colombia use?
Colombia uses Type A and B plugs (two flat pins, same as US). Voltage is 110V. UK and European visitors need a travel adapter to charge devices.
Is Colombia safe for tourists?
Colombia has improved dramatically and tourist areas in major cities are generally safe with normal precautions. Avoid flashy jewellery and phones, use official taxis or ride apps, and stay aware of your surroundings. Areas outside main tourist routes require more research as some regions still have security concerns. Check current travel advisories before visiting remote areas.
How much does it cost to travel in Colombia?
Colombia offers good value for money. Budget travellers can manage on hostel dorms (COP 40,000-70,000 / £8-14 per night), set lunches (COP 15,000-25,000 / £3-5), and local transport. Mid-range hotels cost COP 250,000-450,000 (£50-90) per night. Restaurant meals range from COP 30,000-60,000 (£6-12). Domestic flights cost COP 150,000-400,000 (£30-80).
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