Malaysia surprised me. I had expected a watered-down version of its more famous neighbours – not as chaotic as Thailand, not as polished as Singapore. What I found was something entirely its own: a country where Malay, Chinese, Indian, and indigenous cultures genuinely coexist, where the food scene rivals anywhere in Asia, and where you can go from gleaming skyscrapers to ancient rainforest in a couple of hours.
The country splits geographically in a way that confuses first-time planners. Peninsular Malaysia connects to Thailand and contains the main cities, beaches, and most tourist infrastructure. Malaysian Borneo – the states of Sabah and Sarawak – sits on an entirely different island, sharing it with Brunei and Indonesian Kalimantan. These two halves feel like different countries: the peninsula is developed and easy to navigate; Borneo is wilder, more remote, and home to orangutans and some of the oldest rainforest on Earth.
I spent three weeks covering both, and it still felt rushed. Here is what I learned.
Kuala Lumpur: More Than a Stopover
Most visitors treat KL as a transit point – a night or two before moving on to beaches or Borneo. That is a mistake. The city deserves at least three days, maybe more if you care about food.
The Petronas Twin Towers
Yes, they are touristy. Yes, you should still go. These 452-metre towers were the world’s tallest buildings when completed in 1998, and they remain Malaysia’s defining image. The sky bridge connecting them at level 41 and the observation deck at level 86 offer genuinely impressive views across the city and beyond.
Book tickets online in advance – same-day tickets sell out, especially for sunset slots. Entry costs around RM98 (roughly £17). The KLCC park at the base is worth a wander too, with a decent lake and free fountain show each evening.
Batu Caves
Eleven kilometres north of the city centre, this limestone hill contains a series of caves and cave temples. The main Temple Cave requires climbing 272 rainbow-painted steps, passing macaques that will absolutely steal your food if given the chance. Inside, the cathedral-like cavern houses Hindu shrines beneath stalactites that have been forming for 400 million years.
During Thaipusam (usually late January or early February), over a million pilgrims come here – devotees pierce their skin with hooks and skewers as acts of devotion. Even on a regular day, the scale is impressive. Take the KTM Komuter train from KL Sentral – it is cheap and drops you right there.
The Food
This is the real reason to spend time in KL. The multicultural population means you can eat Chinese, Indian, and Malay food at the highest level, often in the same hawker centre. Some essentials:
Nasi lemak – Coconut rice with sambal, anchovies, peanuts, and egg. The national dish, eaten for breakfast but available all day. The sambal (chilli paste) makes or breaks it.
Char kway teow – Flat rice noodles stir-fried with prawns, Chinese sausage, cockles, and bean sprouts in a smoky wok. Best from street vendors who have been making it for decades.
Roti canai – Flaky flatbread served with dhal or curry. Watching the makers stretch and flip the dough is half the experience.
Banana leaf curry – South Indian rice meals served on banana leaves, typically with various curries, vegetables, and papadum. Unlimited refills are standard.
Jalan Alor in Bukit Bintang is the famous food street – touristy but genuinely good. For more local vibes, try the hawker centres at Imbi Market or Pudu.
Getting Around KL
The city has reasonable public transport but it is not seamless. The various metro, monorail, and commuter rail systems do not always connect logically, and walking between stations in the heat is brutal. Grab (the regional Uber equivalent) is excellent and cheap – expect to pay RM10-20 (£2-4) for most city journeys.
Traffic is horrendous during rush hours. Avoid taxis if possible; many do not use meters and will quote ridiculous prices.
Penang: Food Capital of Malaysia
If KL surprised me, Penang blew me away. This island state off the northwest coast has been a trading port for centuries, and the cultural layering shows in everything from the architecture to the food.
George Town
The historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and wandering its streets is the main activity. Colonial-era shophouses in various states of restoration line narrow streets alongside Chinese temples, Indian mosques, and clan houses. The street art installations – particularly the interactive murals by Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic – have become attractions in their own right, though hunting them down can feel like a scavenger hunt.
Skip the expensive trishaw tours and just walk. The old town is compact enough to cover on foot, and the best discoveries happen when you are not looking for them.
The Food (Again)
Penang’s food scene has genuine claim to being the best in Malaysia, which means possibly the best in Southeast Asia. The hawker culture here is legendary, with family-run stalls passing down recipes through generations.
Penang laksa (asam laksa) – Different from other laksas, this version uses a sour fish-based broth with tamarind, not coconut. Intense, complex, absolutely addictive. Try it at Air Itam market.
Char kway teow – Penang claims superiority over KL’s version. Having tried both extensively, I cannot pick a winner, but the Penang style tends to be slightly drier with more wok hei (smoky wok flavour).
Hokkien mee – Prawn noodle soup with a rich, dark broth made from prawn heads and shells. Not much to look at but incredibly flavourful.
Cendol – Shaved ice with coconut milk, palm sugar, and green rice flour jelly. Essential in the heat. The famous stall on Penang Road has queues for a reason.
Beyond the Food
Kek Lok Si Temple is one of the largest Buddhist temples in Southeast Asia – genuinely impressive pagodas and statues spread across a hillside in Air Itam. The Penang Hill funicular railway takes you 833 metres up for cooler temperatures and views across the island and strait.
The beaches on the north coast (Batu Ferringhi area) are acceptable but nothing special – if beaches are your priority, head elsewhere.
Langkawi: Duty-Free Paradise
This archipelago of 99 islands sits in the Andaman Sea near the Thai border. The duty-free status draws domestic tourists loading up on chocolate and alcohol, but Langkawi offers more than cheap booze.
The main island has proper beaches – Pantai Cenang is the developed strip with hotels and restaurants, while quieter options exist further north. The water is not crystal clear (sediment from river runoff), but it is warm and swimmable.
The Langkawi Cable Car and Sky Bridge are worth the trip – the steepest cable car in the world takes you up Gunung Mat Cincang, where a curved pedestrian bridge offers views across the islands and over to Thailand. The Kilim Karst Geoforest Park on the east coast has mangrove tours through dramatic limestone formations.
Accommodation ranges from budget guesthouses to serious luxury resorts. The Datai and Four Seasons are world-class if you have the budget; mid-range options around Pantai Cenang offer decent value.
The Islands: East Coast vs West Coast
Malaysia has genuinely excellent islands, but timing matters. The east coast and west coast have opposite monsoon seasons.
East Coast Islands (Perhentians, Redang, Tioman)
Best from March to October. These islands offer the clearest water, best snorkelling, and most pristine beaches in Peninsular Malaysia. The Perhentian Islands are backpacker favourites with budget accommodation on the beach and easy diving. Tioman is larger and more developed. Redang is more upmarket with resort-focused tourism.
November to February brings monsoon rains and rough seas – most accommodation closes entirely.
West Coast Islands (Langkawi)
Accessible year-round but best from November to April when the east coast is off-limits. Weather is less predictable, and waters are not as clear, but Langkawi works when the other islands do not.
Malaysian Borneo
Crossing to Sabah or Sarawak feels like entering a different country. The infrastructure is less developed, distances are greater, and the landscapes are wilder. This is where you come for serious nature.
Mount Kinabalu (Sabah)
Southeast Asia’s highest peak at 4,095 metres. The two-day climb is challenging but does not require technical skills – thousands of people summit each year. You must book through tour operators (permits are limited), stay overnight at mountain lodges, and summit before dawn to catch sunrise above the clouds.
Expect to pay around RM2,000-3,000 (£350-500) for the full package including guides, accommodation, and permits. Book well ahead during peak season.
Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre
Orphaned and rescued orangutans are rehabilitated and released back into the wild. Feeding times (10am and 3pm) draw the animals to platforms where visitors can observe them – not guaranteed sightings, but most people see at least a few. The nearby Sun Bear Conservation Centre offers similar rehabilitation work for the world’s smallest bears.
Kinabatangan River
Two to three hours from Sandakan, this river offers some of the best wildlife viewing in Borneo. Stay at a riverside lodge and take dawn and dusk boat trips – pygmy elephants, proboscis monkeys, crocodiles, and countless bird species appear along the banks.
Diving
Sipadan, off the coast of Sabah, is consistently rated among the world’s top dive sites. Permits are strictly limited; book months ahead through accredited dive operators. For those without permits, nearby islands like Mabul and Kapalai offer excellent alternatives.
Practical Information
Visas: Most nationalities get 90 days visa-free on arrival. Your passport needs six months validity and you should have proof of onward travel.
Currency: Malaysian Ringgit (MYR). Roughly RM5.5 to £1. ATMs are everywhere; cards work in cities but carry cash for hawkers and small towns.
Language: Bahasa Malaysia is official, but English is widely spoken in tourist areas and cities. Communication is rarely a problem.
Getting around: AirAsia and Malaysia Airlines connect all major destinations cheaply if booked ahead. Buses are comfortable for peninsula travel – the KL to Penang route takes about four hours. Ferries run to all the islands from various mainland ports. Grab works nationwide.
Costs: Budget travellers can manage on £25-35 per day with hostel dorms, hawker food, and public transport. Mid-range comfort runs £50-80 per day. Luxury has no ceiling.
Power: Type G plugs (same as UK). No adapter needed for British visitors.
Weather: Hot and humid year-round, with temperatures typically 27-33°C. The west coast (including KL and Penang) is drier December to February; the east coast and Borneo are best March to October.
Two Week Itinerary
Here is a realistic route covering the highlights without feeling rushed:
Days 1-3: Kuala Lumpur. Petronas Towers, Batu Caves, serious eating.
Days 4-6: Penang. George Town heritage, food crawl, temple visit.
Days 7-9: Langkawi. Beaches, cable car, island time.
Days 10-13: Perhentian Islands (if in season) or Cameron Highlands (if monsoon). Beach and diving, or tea plantations and cooler weather.
Day 14: Return to KL, fly home.
For Borneo, add at least five to seven days and treat it as a separate trip – rushing through defeats the purpose.
